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Glossary Bikini Pantyhose: A style of pantyhose with a sheer leg that extends to the hip for wear with shorter hem-lines, short pants and deep side-slit fashions. Boarding - Socks: In this operation the sock is stretched either dry or moist over flat metal or wooden forms conforming to the desired sock shape and size. It is then pressed between two heated surfaces. This gives the sock form a smooth appearance. It is a process similar to ironing. Sheers: A full-shaped heat setting operation in which stockings and pantyhose are put on metal leg forms for a specific size and shape and then dried in a steam cabinet. The process is done after dyeing. The term "boarding" stems from the olden days when wooden boards were used to dry stockings. (See Pre-Boarding, Semi-Boarded, and the Intech Process.) Body Shapers: Term used to describe sheer hosiery providing more support and control in the panty and thigh portion of the garment. Body Stocking: A body stocking, leotard or jumpsuit is a garment that covers the torso and may extend to the toe. Initially designed as cosmetic covering in flesh tones and sheer texture, the garment is now widely interpreted in design but still retains its body clinging quality. Body Suit: A one-piece leotard, usually knit of nylon or nylon/spandex, that covers the body from the shoulder area to and including the crotch. Boot: The portion of the pantyhose leg running from the thigh area to the toe, or below stocking welt or panty. Bruised Fabric: Sheer nylons cannot stand coming in contract with any hard surface and contacted by another hard object. This action will bruise the fabric sufficiently to cause a rupture when placed under strain. Business Sheer: Moderately sheer pantyhose designed for durability. Comfort Top: A wide ribbed nylon band that holds sheer knee highs up without cramping the calf. Control Top: Pantyhose with spandex in the top for soft girdle or "control" effect. Cotton Crotch: A cotton panel sewn into the crotch area of pantyhose. Cotton Sole: A cotton insert sewn or knit into the sole of the stocking or pantyhose. Covered Yarn: A core usually composed of one spandex or rubber fiber, wrapped with a filament or spun yarn. Daytime or Dress Sheers: Pantyhose of 15 or 20 denier yarn for a dressy daytime look. Demi-Toe: Stocking or pantyhose with a nude, sheer heel and reinforced toe. A popular fashion with sling back shoes. Denier: Denier is the weight-per-unit-length of the yarn. (It is numerically equal to the weight, in grams, of 9,000 meters of yarn.) The lower the denier, the lighter and finer the yarn, and the sheerer the garment. Hose knit of higher denier yarns tend to be more durable. Double Covered Spandex: Spandex that had been wrapped in both directions with nylon or polyester continuous filament yarn or other textile fibers. Double Covered (Yarn): The process of wrapping two non-elastic filament or spun yarn around the extended core, the bottom cover yarn controls the stretch, while the top cover serves to balance and provide a smooth appearance. Elastic: A term which designates the ability of a yarn to return to its original size or shape after being stretched. Elasticity: The ability of a strained material to recover its original size and shape immediately after removal of the stress that caused deformation. Evening Sheers: Pantyhose made of 10 to 15 denier yarn. Worn for special occasions, they often have a satin finish. Finishing: Includes all sock and sheer hosiery manufacturing steps excluding knitting and sewing. For socks, it includes bleaching, scouring and dyeing, boarding, pairing, ornamentation, folding and packaging. For sheers, it includes dyeing, boarding, pairing, and packaging. Firm Support: Support pantyhose that give more support because heavier weights (usually 70) of spandex are used. Fishnet: Knitted knee-highs, stockings or pantyhose with a very wide open knit resembling a fish net. Very stylish and fashionable, but very porous providing little warmth or protection or cosmetic covering. Fit: It is the combination of yarn and construction that determines the adaptability of hosiery and bodywear to the human form. Stretch and recovery of yarns and knit construction contribute to a garment's fit. Flat Yarn: This term is often used by knitters and coverers to indicate raw yarn they use. Flat yarns have no stretch unless they are textured. They are also used as the alternate course in many sheer spandex styles. (See Raw Yarn. Footsocks: Hosiery with a top which does not extend above the ankle bone. Also known as "footies". Full-Fashioned: Full-fashioned stockings are knitted flat, and the two sides are united afterwards by a seam up the back. As a result of decreasing stitches over the calf to make the hose narrower in the ankle, small "fashion markings" or loops are visible running parallel to either side of the seam. The popularity of the full fashioned stockings, at a peak immediately after World War II, has declined since the introduction of seamless hosiery. Girdle Top: Pantyhose with a sewn-on girdle, for the firmest possible tummy control. Glimmer: This term refers to a light reflection from the yarn, mainly from a trilobal yarn which gives the glimmer effect by reflecting the light. Graduated Support: This type of support hosiery is more comfortable because there are no sudden changes in the tightness of the spandex going up and down the leg. Graduation: The tapering of the leg from the top to the bottom by tightening the stitches to give a proper fit at the ankle, knee, thigh, and the top of the panty. Gusset: A term that means crotch panel in pantyhose. The "gusset" can be all nylon, or can be cotton/nylon. It can be any shape from diamond to full back panel, but always means there is an extra piece sewn in at the crotch area. Hole: Hosiery that has been ruptured by bruised, cut, burned, or abraded fabric to cause a hole to appear that will develop into a run. Irregulars: Hosiery that contains minor imperfections in dimensions, size, color or knit but without obvious mends, runs, breaks or substantial damage to yarn or fabric. Knee-Highs: Short hosiery that comes up to just below the knee. They are styled with elastic tops and stay up without the help of garters. They became very popular with the advent of women's slacks. Knit-In Waistband: This type waistband is made of spandex and nylon and is inserted into the top of the garment while on the knitting machine. It is not attached later. It is non-binding and does not get tighter, and thus uncomfortable, during wear. Lace: Ladies sheer hosiery knitted with a pattern resembling lace and/or hosiery with lace seamed to the top of the leg or waistband. Leotard: A one-piece garment, originally worn by dancers, that covers the torso. Today's leotards often double as swimsuits or fashion accessories, and are available in a variety of styles and designs. Light Support: Pantyhose made with a low denier spandex in the leg, usually 40 denier or lower spandex, to give light compression on the wearer. Lycra 3D: DuPont brand for hosiery garments that contain lycra in every course. This yields exceptional fit and a smooth appearance. Lycra Spandex: A registered trademark of the DuPont Company for their spandex fiber, which is commonly used in sheer hosiery, socks and half-hose for its stretch and recovery properties, providing better fit and shape retention, comfort, and/or support. Man-Made Fiber: A class name for various genera of fibers (including continuous filaments) produced from fiber-forming substances which may be:
Maternity: Pantyhose constructed specifically for expectant mothers that provides an expanded panty and higher waistband for comfortable wear during pregnancy. Matte: Hosiery with a dull finish; minus a shine or lustre. Metallic Yarn: A manufactured yarn usually made of metallic coated polyester plastic and used as an accent in novelty socks. Microfiber: Microfiber is a generic term used to indicate yarns made of filament weighing less than one denier per filament (DPF), most commonly used in creation of nylon and polyester products. Mock Seams: A false seam sewn into the back of a seamless stocking of circular knit hosiery. Non-Run: Stockings or pantyhose with a special interlocking stitch that prevents runs (but not holes). Also called run-proof and run-less. Special processes under which the hosiery are manufactured are all designed to give the stocking or pantyhose extra life. Non-Stretch: Garment manufactured without stretch yarns. Usually made of natural, ridged non-stretch fibers. Product has no compression or stretch ability which generally makes for a less satisfactory fit but is desirable for varying reasons such as fashion or medical conditions. Nude Heel: Pantyhose or stocking without reinforcement in the heel area. The exact same knitting is used as in the boot or leg of the stocking or pantyhose. Enjoys a popular appeal thanks to the open-heeled or sling-back shoe. Nylon: Man-made fiber introduced in 1938. It is the first and the oldest of the true synthetics. Chemically, nylon is a man-made polyamide fiber derived from coal, air, and water. This fiber is famous for its strength, abrasion resistance, dimensional stability, soft hand, elasticity, and easy-washing and quick-drying characteristics. There are two basic types of nylon used in hosiery. They are Type 6 and Type 6,6. Type 6 nylon is softer and has less memory when textured than Type 6,6. Most of the yarns used in ladies hosiery are made of Type 6,6 nylon to impart the maximum memory to the fabric. In socks, it is used primarily in men's dress socks, novelties, and as a reinforcement with other fibers. Another use for nylon in socks is the stretch filament nylon plaited with other fibers to obtain multi-sizes. One Piece Pantyhose: Pantyhose that is knit in a continuous operation beginning at one toe and ending at the other, eliminating the seams of a conventional style. One Size: The term applied to pantyhose or stockings that fit most sizes from very small to large. Opaque: Stockings or pantyhose made of yarn which give them heavier appearance, usually 40 denier or greater in weight. Panty/Pantyhose: A pantyhose garment that includes a true knitted-in panty, constructed of heavier weight nylon or cotton. Eliminates "panty lines" that can show through clingy knits or tight pants. (See All-In-One Pantyhose. Pantyhose: A garment that combines both panty and stockings into a one piece waist-high garment that extends above the crotch, but not above the waist, to the toes. Pre-Boarding: After a stocking or pantyhose is knit, each stitch and loop is permanently set in place by an operation called "pre-boarding" or heat setting in a steam chamber. The stocking is placed on a metal leg form called a "board" and then given the steam treatment. Pre-boarding takes place prior to dyeing. (See Boarding. Proportioned Fit: Stockings or pantyhose specially designed to have different circumferences (foot, ankle, calf, and thigh) and lengths for each size wearer. Pull Threads: A thread is snagged and pulled from the fabric causing tight stitches that rupture under strain to make holes and runs. The greatest hazard to sheer hosiery is a pulled thread. This accounts for approximately 80 percent of all ruined sheer hosiery products. Queen Size: Stockings, pantyhose, or knee-highs sized to fit the heavier woman. Queen size is usually considered an extension of standard garments into a larger size. Outsize, on the other hand, is considered a separate category of merchandise altogether. Raw Yarn: Filament yarn which has no stretch and is untextured. Reinforced: The stress areas such as the toe or panty portion have been strengthened with yarns of heavier denier. Ribbed: Vertical pattern of alternating ridges in socks and sheer hosiery. Design may be formed through differences in weight, in knit stitch or opacity. Run-Resistant: Stockings or pantyhose knit with micro mesh or tuck stitch patterns that resist runs in an upward direction. Runs: Stitches that have unchained due to broken stitches. Sandalfoot Hosiery: This is a nude toe, meaning no heavier yarn in the toe than is in the leg. Seamed: Hosiery manufactured in the old full-fashioned manner with a seam running up the back of the leg. In the past, these garments were manufactured by cutting fabric and sewing it together. Today these products are generally made on a full circular knitted two bases and a fake seam is added up the back for a particular fashion look. Some tights are seamed on the inside of the leg but these are generally not produced by hosiery manufacturers. Seamless: Stockings knit in one operation on circular machines (one continuous operation) so that no seaming is required up the back. (See Full Fashioned. Semi-Boarded: These garments are not subjected to a full heat setting operation. In appearance they are slightly wrinkled and shapeless until stretched over the leg and body. This operation is sometimes called the Intech Process. Sheer Support: A term often used when describing support pantyhose, which are considerably more sheer than the original support garments, due to improvements in yarns and manufacturing techniques. Sheer-To-The-Waist: Pantyhose without visible panty line or reinforcement in the panty portion. It is an all-sheer garment from waist to toe. Sheers: Dress sheers are hosiery fashioned generally of 15 or 20 denier yarn: to be worn for daytime glamour. Evening sheers are hosiery fashioned of wisp-weight 10,12, or 15 denier yarn: to be worn for special occasions. Silken Sheers: Category of soft, silky well-fitting pantyhose made from Du Pont nylon and fine denier Lycra spandex. Single Covered Spandex: Spandex that has been wrapped in one direction with nylon or other yarn. Single Covered (Yarn): The process of wrapping one non-elastic filament or spun yarn around the extended core. Single cover yarn has torque. Snag: Same as pulled thread.. Spandex: A generic term denoting a man-made elastomeric fiber used in place of rubber. Spandex was developed by DuPont in 1959, offering the unique capacity for stretch and recovery. It can stretch to over five times its relaxed strength and fully recover. Spandex is used in support and light support products to provide the energy to shape and compress the leg. Spandex yarns are often covered with nylon yarns to protect the spandex. Spandex is widely used in sock tops and pantyhose waistbands for its stretch/recovery properties and "stay up" holding power. It is increasingly used in corespun yarn and as plaiting yarn to replace textured nylon for better size range, improved fit, and comfort. Spandex Sheers: A category of sheer hosiery styles. The leg yarn is composed of sheer nylon and single covered light-weight spandex (20 denier or finer) to give this hosiery good fit, sheerness, and softness. Spandex sheers do not give a support leg, but the spandex does enhance fit and comfort. Stocking: A knitted, close-fitting covering for the foot and leg. Strand: A single filament of fiber. Stretch Hosiery: Stockings knit of processed nylon filament yarn treated to give permanent stretchability. Stretch stockings "change" size to fit each foot, leg length, and volume perfectly. They are extremely desirable to the woman whose dimensions are too heavy or too slender. Support Hosiery: Socks or other hosiery made of nylon or polyester with spandex or other elastic fiber added to give support to the leg. Support hosiery has spandex in the legs to reduce leg fatigue. The principle of support is to provide graduated compression to the leg. A total support pantyhose is one that has control in the panty portion as well as support in the legs. Support no longer means a heavy, surgical garment. Today, it has fashion sheerness and color as well as durability. Tactel Microfibers: DuPont brand for microfiber hosiery yarns (less than 1 DPF) that delivers the ultimate in softness. Tactel Multifils: DuPont brand for 1 to 1.5 DPF yarns that blends softness with a sheer, clear look in hosiery. Thigh-Highs: Stockings that just reach the thigh and are held up by elastomer bands. Tights: A heavy, opaque one-piece garment from hip to toe worn with leotards for dance, exercise, etc. It is usually made with 40 denier yarn and over and is sometimes made of yarn other than nylon. English term for all waist high hosiery including sheers. Toelets: Knitted hosiery of various weights that is designed to cover the toe portion of the foot only. Designed to be worn with special types of shoes such as clogs. U Seams: Pantyhose that are sewn one leg blank to another with a continuous U seam to join the legs. These garments have no crotch sewn in. Ultra Sheer: A fine denier fiber which gives the ultimate in sheerness. It is usually 20 denier or less and a low filament count. Unboarded: Hosiery not subjected to preboarding or boarding operations in its manufacture. In appearance it is wrinkled and shapeless until stretched over the leg and body. Ventilation: A knitting operation that allows fabrics to breath. It is often utilized in pantyhose for cotton crotch panels or cotton soles. (See Aeration. Waistband: An elastic band either knitted into or sewn onto the top portion of the pantyhose, to hug the waist and hold the garment up. Welt: A fabric knitted separately and machine-sewn to the top of the sock, or hem at the tip of a stocking knit in heavier denier yarn and folded double to give strength for supporter fastening. Wicking: The capacity of a fiber to transport moisture away from itself. Wrapped Yarn: A yarn composed of one fiber as a core, wrapped with a filament or spun yarn of another. For example, spandex is frequently wrapped with nylon to improve strength and durability. Yarn: A generic term for an assemblage of fibers or filaments, either natural or manufactured, twisted or laid together to form a continuous strand suitable for use in producing fibers. |
